Dry Cleaning Method- Absorbent particles are liberally spread on carpet to absorb soil. These abrasive particles cannot be removed thoroughly and promote premature wear. Then the carpet is buffed with rotating pads (bonnets) to absorb the soil. After repeated cleanings with this abrasive method the carpet can dull.

Surface Cleaning Method- These use the bonnet and pressurized combination. This cleans just the tips of the carpet and doesn’t effectively clean corners and stairs due to the make of the bulky equipment used. There is the possibility of untangling the tufts of plush carpet.

Shampoo Method- This uses rotating brushes that abrade the carpet and is only able to clean the tips of the carpet. It also leaves a sticky residue behind, even when a "double clean" method is used, and re-attracts soil.

STEAM CLEANING- A pre-spray solution is sprayed to loosen soil. Hot filtered water cleans the entire fiber. There is no such thing as a "surface clean" with steam cleaning. This quickly removes even ground in soil. The vacuum extracts around 95% of the moisture resulting in fast drying. There is no residue left behind. The equipment effectively cleans corners and steps removing dust, allergens, and other microscopic pollutants that carpet traps.

Acids stain carpet. Most of the dilemmas we encounter are acidic in nature. To counter this we have to battle it with an alkaline solution. The trick is to find the opposite strength in alkalinity as the stain has in acidity. The following is a cost-effective solution for the emergency.

• Fruit juice, candy, ice cream, gravy, alcohol & soft drinks- Mix one-quart water with one-teaspoon mild detergent & one-teaspoon white vinegar then pour into a spray bottle if at all possible. Be sure to blot up as much as possible with a clean cloth. Minimally apply the solution to spot and with a clean damp cloth, wipe from outside to inside direction. With a dry cloth wipe from outside to inside direction. Repeat till clean.

• Mud- Let dry. Then crumble and remove the excess with vacuum. Clean rest with above solution and manner.
• Urine- Blot up as much as possible. Dilute the stain further by wiping with a damp cloth from an outside to inside direction. Then clean with one quart water with one teaspoon white vinegar or club soda in the manner described at top.
• Nail Polish- Blot up as much as possible. Use nail polish remover and apply with an eyedropper. Wait a few seconds then blot. Repeat until gone.
• Cigarette Burns- If the burned area is small and only at the top of carpet, snip off the charred bits with nail clippers. Note: This will leave an indentation in the carpet but will look less noticeable than a black mark.

Nothing can prepare you for these calamities. A water pipe, hot water heater, waterbed or fish tank that burst and floods your home. A washing machine or toilet, that overflows on a fluke. The only thing that can be done is clean up afterwards. But fear not for the carpet can be saved in the majority of situations if you get it taken care of within 2 days. Mold and mildew will become a nasty problem if moisture is allowed to sit longer than that.

Of course the first thing to do is make sure the leaking water is stopped. Insurance usually covers this type of accident but check your policy before you assume they will. We don’t work with the insurance companies and therefore require payment upon completion of the job. Insurance companies will reimburse you over the deductible. Call us 24/7 (704-551-0611) and clear all the small items off the floor and atop the furniture in the affected area. We charge $25 per room to move furniture from the affected area so if not covered by insurance you may want to do this yourself.

Our first goal is to make sure the water source is no longer a problem. Then, depending on the depth of the water we either extract excess water or start removing the padding. We will start moving all furniture to one side of the room and fold the carpet back to expose the padding to be removed. The padding acts like a sponge and easily breaks apart. It is to be removed and thrown away. The sub-floor and carpet will be vacuumed as dry as possible and the same will occur with the second half of the room. A deodorizer will be sprayed under and on the affected areas to prevent mold and mildew. The furniture will be placed back on the carpet with protection under them to prevent rust or staining. The padding will be placed at the street; arrangements may be needed for the city to remove it. A blower will be placed in the room ($25) to aid in air circulation, decreasing drying time.

After we leave, use fans to keep the air moving. Walking across the carpet is fine, but be careful when stepping off the carpet onto uncarpeted surfaces. It will be slippery. Tack strips may be exposed along the walls. These keep the carpet in place and are very sharp. Take care not to step on them.

Keep the protective plastic under the furniture for 2-3 days. Do not add furniture to the carpet until it’s completely dry.

In some cases the carpet may need to be thrown away. Old carpet, 20+ years, may shrink or be too weak to withstand the re-stretching process of re-tacking. The City will take it away. It must be cut; a razor is efficient, into 4-foot sections and rolled tightly.

When the carpet has dried the pad will need to be replaced and carpet stretched back into position. Any floor-covering retailer can do the job. After this is done it would be wise to have it cleaned. In extracting the water there is no cleaning solution used in the process. At the time of extraction the goal is to get the carpet dry as fast as possible. To do that we don’t want to add more water to the situation. Therefore we recommend to have it cleaned after the carpet has completely dried.